Better floors start with better installation.

It depends on a few things: the square footage, the material you choose, whether an old floor has to come up, how much levelling the subfloor needs, and whether stairs or baseboards are part of the job. Stairs take longer than their size suggests, because every tread and nosing is cut and fitted individually. The estimator gives you a rough idea. The free on-site measure gives you the real number, and you're under no obligation.

It depends on the size of the area, whether old flooring has to be removed, and how much levelling is needed. Levelling compound has to dry before anything goes over it. Some materials also need to sit in the house first to adjust to its temperature and humidity, and the manufacturer sets how long. You'll get a realistic timeline for your job at the measure. For a start date, just call and ask.

No. The estimator gives a range from our standard rates, based on what you tell it. The firm quote comes after the free on-site measure, once the rooms have been measured properly and someone has seen what's under the old floor. Levelling, a damaged subfloor or extra trim are the usual reasons a price moves, and they're talked through with you before you decide.

Usually, yes. The rooms being worked on are out of use while the work is going on, and removing the old floor is the noisiest, dustiest part. Click-together laminate and vinyl plank can generally be walked on as soon as they're down, because there's no glue or finish to cure. Refinishing is different: the room stays out of use until the finish has dried enough to walk on, furniture waits longer, and the finish being used sets how long, so ask about it at the quote. If you're doing a whole floor, expect your route through the house to change as rooms are finished.

Clear small items, rugs and anything breakable out of the rooms, and empty closet floors if they're getting new flooring too. Mention large furniture and appliances at the measure so there's a plan for them. Keep pets and children out of the work area, and leave a clear path from the driveway for new material coming in and old flooring going out.

Click-together floors are designed to sit on a flat surface. Over a dip or a hump, the boards flex every time someone walks across them. That shows up as a soft or hollow feel, clicking or creaking, and eventually as joints that open or break. Levelling evens out the surface before the new floor goes down. It's also why flatness gets checked at the measure, so you know about it before you decide.

Waterproof laminate has a hard, scratch-resistant surface and feels solid underfoot. The 12mm AC4 laminate we supply is rated for heavy household traffic. Luxury vinyl plank is quieter to walk on, and the plank itself is waterproof, which makes it a common choice for basements and bathrooms. Engineered flooring has a real wood top layer, so it looks and ages like wood, but it's less tolerant of standing water than either, and it dents and scratches more easily than laminate. At the measure you can look at samples and talk through what suits each room.

Waterproof laminate and luxury vinyl plank are the two to look at. Laminate's harder surface stands up better to claws and toys dragged across it. Vinyl's strength is water: the plank won't swell if a water bowl tips over. Within each type, compare the AC rating on laminate and the wear layer, measured in mils, on vinyl. Either way, wipe up pet accidents and standing water promptly. Waterproof laminate is usually rated for spills cleaned up within a set number of hours, and the manufacturer's warranty spells out exactly what "waterproof" covers.

Sometimes. A floating floor can often go over a flat, sound hard floor, such as sheet vinyl or tile that's still firmly stuck down, but never over carpet. Every layer left in place also raises the floor at doorways, transitions and the top of the stairs, and some products don't allow it at all, so the manufacturer's installation instructions have the final say. The measure is where that call gets made for your rooms.

Sweep or vacuum regularly, because grit is what dulls a floor. Use a damp mop rather than a wet one, put felt pads under furniture legs, and put mats at entry doors. Skip steam mops and harsh cleaners unless the manufacturer says they're fine. Many manufacturers advise against them, and the wrong cleaner can affect your warranty.

Grit and furniture do most of the damage. Put felt pads under chair and table legs and replace them when they wear through, lift heavy furniture rather than dragging it, and use a chair mat under a rolling office chair. Mats inside and outside entry doors catch the grit before it reaches the floor. Rubber-backed mats can stain some vinyl, so choose ones the flooring maker approves.

On a click-together floor, a damaged plank can usually be replaced without redoing the room. It's easiest with spare boards from the same batch, so keep a few from the install, stored flat in a dry place. Solid hardwood is different: a scratched or worn floor can often be sanded and refinished instead of replaced.